Lay down the dirtīegin piling the dirt on, starting with the landing. Arrange them in two piles, 6ft apart, to make a solid foundation. Pile up your logsĬollect branches and logs and saw them into convenient lengths. Your run-out will need space for building follow-up jumps too. You’ll need a run-in that’s both clear of trees and smooth to ride. Aim for a 5ft-high double that’s about 6ft apart with a 10ft- to 12ft-wide landing. A big double will give you more room for landing after ambitious tricks. How to build big doublesĪfter mastering your small double, you’ll soon want something more challenging. Use the logs and dirt to make your next jump. Smooth everything out, and voila! You now have a perfectly shaped double. ![]() Remember those logs you laid down at the start of the building process? You can now pull these out from the middle without affecting the take-off or landing. Gradually remove dirt from the top of the middle of the jump - if you do this part in stages, it will help you get used to the feeling of jumping a double. ![]() Small doubles BikeRadar 1. Start removing dirt from the middle And you can turn your tabletop into a double gradually, by lowering the middle a little at a time, to make it less scary. A double looks more difficult to jump than a tabletop, but it’s all psychological - they’re the same thing, just with less margin for error. Once you’ve mastered your tabletop and are clearing it every time time, you can turn it into a small double, or gap jump, as it’s also known. You might be riding this jump for years, so it’s definitely worth the wait. Rain and time will firm it down until it’s rideable - this could take as long as a week, but be patient. When you’re satisfied you’ve got the shape right, compact the top of the lip down hard and leave the jump to set. Start from the bottom and work your way over the ruts left by your tyres until your bike runs smoothly up and down, and there are no bumps. Shape the lip by rolling your bike up and down the take off to compact it, then use the shovel to smack it into shape. Start smoothing it out like you did with the landing, walking it and flattening it, keeping the curve smooth and the shape steep. A rule of thumb is to have a similar slope to the landing, only slightly steeper, and longer than your bike. Visualise the path your bike will take over that jump into the landing, and work out what the bike position at take off should be. Stand back and look at the top of the jump, the landing and how it meets the ground. Walk it down, then level it with a good whack from a flat, heavy shovel. Get the top as flat and compacted as you can, then use your feet to push the last two bike lengths of the jump into a gentle slope for the landing. Once you’ve made the table, it’s time to shape it. Level out the dirt using a rake or shovel and walk around on it to get it as compressed and as flat as possible, ready for the next soil load. Load your freshly dug earth into a wheelbarrow and dump it over the logs to keep them secure. Dig a hole nearby (as close as possible), and keep it big and shallow. This will make it easier when you want to turn your jump into a double (the idea is that you can pull out the middle without affecting the take-off or landing - more on that below). Lay the wood widthways across the table where you think the centre of the jump will be. Have a search for dead wood that you can use to make a solid foundation to your jump. ![]() Clean upįirst up, thoroughly clear any debris, etc from the area where you want your tabletop to stand. How to build a tabletop jump in 11 easy steps 1. We believe in our product and will try to give Industry Nine customers the benefit of the doubt in any case where the cause of failure is undetermined.Only build where you have permission. Modification of rim finish or graphics by use of stripping solvents or chemicals will void rim warranty. Use of non-authorized aftermarket adaptors and/or modification of axles, hubs, spokes or any other component may result in a voided warranty. Spokes will be warranted against defects, but not trail accidents, drivetrain/frame mechanical failure, or foreign object intrusion.Īluminum rims are covered under the two-year warranty but are not warrantied for impact or crash damage. This warranty covers materials and workmanship but does not cover normal wear and tear, such as bearing wear, or damage due to lack of proper service intervals. Industry Nine will not be able to provide warranty support or assume liability for hubs or wheels that are utilized outside of their intended purpose. The warranty will apply to stems, MatchStix, hub shells, axles, drive mechanisms, spokes, and rims. Industry Nine will repair or replace, at our discretion, any affected components or assemblies. We offer a two-year warranty against defects in materials or workmanship on all Industry Nine products.
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